What Unknown Lurks in Africa?

 My grandson WIlliam and I exchange literary pieces for Christmas. Following is the story I wrote. 

Mokele-Mbembe

 

Byanga, Central African Republic.  My small plane charter flight got in about 9 this morning. I was met at the air strip by Emanuel, my guide. He had transport ready, a beat-up old Toyota pickup, and off we went into the reserve. We traced a forest track, parked at a gate, then walked for 40 minutes down trails beneath gigantic trees and across a small stream until arriving at Dzanga Sangha Bai, an open area in the jungle that contained salty springs. I was astounded at the animals present, especially elephants. There were at my initial count 36 of various sizes, digging in the springs or lounging in the mud. Little ones cavorted around. Also in the area, which was about three or four football fields in size were cow-sized bongo forest antelopes with big horns and stripped flanks, and a number of smaller deer like creatures. “Blue duikers and reedbucks,” Emanuel said.  He pointed to a huge pig in a far mud pit, “forest hog, very dangerous close up.”  I saw monkeys in the trees opposite and flocks of raucous parrots. Indeed, with elephants rumbling and squealing, sucking, and spraying, plus the bird chatter, the bai was not a silent place. I unlimbered my camera, affixed the long lens and spent several happy hours photographing the various beasts. It was wondrous.  After several hours we retraced our path to the pick-up.

Back in the little town, after a cold beer and a plate of fish and chips while sitting on a small terrace overlooking the half mile expanse of the Sangha River, I explained to Emanuel why I had come to this forgotten corner of the world. I told him I was a photojournalist trying to make my mark. Animal pictures, like the marvelous ones I took earlier at the bai, weren’t enough. I needed something sensational. Therefore, I was on a quest to find and photograph the elusive mokele-mbembe, the last living dinosaur.  Emmanuel laughed. “That beast is only a folk tale, which gets embroidered upon only to amuse tourists like you.”  I scowled. Emmanuel quickly changed his tune. “How do you plan to find this creature?” he asked.

“I need a guide. Someone who knows the forest. I reckon we’ll have to trek nearly a hundred miles into the northern Congo from which the last reports of the mokele originated.”

Emmanuel retorted, “I am not your guy, I just lead visitors to the bai and back, but perhaps I can find a pygmy who can guide you. Let me go look now.”  He took his leave, still chuckling under his breath. Emmanuel returned several hours later with a short nearly naked man in tow. “This is Mbjah,” he introduced the man.

“Bonjour, Mounjou” the pygmy formally stated as we shook hands.  I knew that mounjou means whiteman in Sangho, the language of central Africa.  It turned out that Mbjah could not or would not say my name George. He always called me mounjou.  

Since Mbjah’s French was rudimentary we used Emmanuel as a translator to Sango and a bit of Bayaka in order to explain the quest and to flesh out the deal.  Mbjah was willing to take me on a long trek into the forest. He admitted to knowing the legends of the mokele-mbembe and the part of the forest where it was supposedly found. He said he had never been that far but was willing to go.  He thought the trek would take “many days.”  Emmanuel noted that pygmies could not count so that might mean days or weeks.  Mbjah said we must first go down river before heading off into the forest.

The next day I augmented my supplies from a small shop. I especially bought a half dozen packages of cigarettes as that was part of Mbjah’s fee. Mbjah confirmed that we could live off the land so did not need to carry much food.  Emmanuel arranged a boat; a long canoe called a pirogue with a twenty-five h/p Johnson outboard motor on it.  He saw us off and wished me well.  Emmanuel added somberly, “be very careful in the forest. Mother Nature can be quite vicious.”

The boat ride was pleasant. The breeze from the boat’s speed cut the heat and humidity even as cloud shadows danced on the brown river water.  There were few signs of human presence. After about an hour Mbjah instructed the boatman to steer into a sandy beach below a small bluff.  We clambered out onto the sand just as a half-dozen naked pygmy children rushed to greet us.  “My family,” Mbjah noted.  As the boat pushed back into the river, I realized that I was now truly off the map and out of contact with the modern world.  The never changing rain forest of the Congo Basin loomed ahead.  

Mbjah enlisted a “brother” named Mabuti to carry a pack. The little settlement was primitive. It was hardly a village, just a camp.  Pygmies built temporary shelters with stick frameworks covered by large tropical leaves.  Mbjah later told me that his clan stayed here or there for a half season or so, then moved on.  Mbjah made a quick round of helloes and goodbyes. Before long, we headed into the rain forest.  The two pygmies alternated leading the way, chopping away the undergrowth with machetes as needed.

The first several days were hard but not terrible. We followed paths made by elephants or red buffalo. Mbjah knew all the French names for the forest’s big game. He snatched me quickly once or twice from the trail into the undergrowth when an elephant or two strode by. I was amazed at how quietly such big beasts moved.  Monkeys often chattered at us from above. Once we surprised a gorilla family eating fruits fallen on the ground.  There was quite a ruckus as they fled.  Mbjah and Mabuti laughed uproariously while imitating the gorilla’s chest thumping.

Food was not great. It usually consisted of porridge of unknown provenance with some mushy leaves on top. Additionally, Mabuti parceled out some very tough dried meat to chew on. My innards, plus I suppose bad water, did not handle this well.  I had bouts of diarrhea which I medicated, and for which Mbjah gave me a forest herb remedy. It left me weak.

My boots sucked as I carefully pulled out of the muck. One foot at a time. It was slow going. The swamp seemed never ending. Game trails were finished. We slogged for miles through dark colored water that was about a foot deep. Occasional drier hummocks rose from the muck, but they were never long enough to avoid the wet. The pygmies went barefoot. I kept on my boots. Being wet added a couple of extra pounds to each step. I sweated profusely in the humid heat. Being under the tree canopy we never saw the sun.  We did experience rain. It usually hammered down for an hour or so every day.  It was tiring.  Like the rain forest the swamp was not quiet. Insects, frogs, and birds buzzed, croaked and chirped incessantly. Snakes too swam by.  I was running out of energy and mentally damning myself for having undertaken such a bizarre quest. But there was no going back.  Mokele-mbembe land was just ahead.

We camped one night on a hummock, land that rose about a foot above the swamp. I collapsed under my mosquito net with barely enough energy to pull a tarp over.  In the middle of the night Mbjah shook me awake. “Mounjou, mounjou.” He cried earnestly. “viens, viens” (come).  There was a rustling sound getting louder every second. It sounded almost like a small tractor nearby.  He and Mabuti grabbed what of our stuff they could. Leading me by the hand, we retreated into the swamp.  I shone my headlamp back on our campsite to see it seething with ants. A wave of back bodies formed a sinuous carpet almost a foot thick. Mbjah pantomimed ants ate everything in their path and that would have included us.

At first light our camp was emptied. Nothing was left of the tarp and my mosquito net. Both had been consumed. Only metal gromets remained. We moved on.

About midday, we arrived at an open expanse of water, a lake evidently a mile or so across.   Mbjah said, “lake of Mokele.”    Stunned, I sat on a log and almost cried.  I was there.  The horrors of the trek behind us. Now was the chance to document history. Spot the world’s only living dinosaur. So where would he be? We moved carefully along the marshy shore towards a clump of tall trees.  There the ground was high enough to provide some respite from the swamp. It was also a good vantage point. We set up camp. I took my binoculars and studied the lake and surrounding shore.  There were birds galore and apparently some hippos not so far away, but no mokele-mbembe.  I stayed searching until dusk. Just as I was about to turn away, I noticed a ripple way out in the middle of the lake. Soon what appeared to be a head and a long neck emerged from the water. I snapped a photo as quick as I could. I mentally marked the direction the apparition was moving in.  Then it was quickly too dark to see.

Back at camp I found that the pygmies had speared several fish that were now roasting over the fire. It was the best meal I’d eaten in weeks.  I told them I had seen something swimming and wanted to push around the lakeshore in the morning.

We were up at dawn as usual and moved out. The going was tough. The lake was apparently the center of a basin that sloped down into it. Our usual shallow swamp was traversed by much deeper streams or extensions of the lake.  The pygmies did not swim so we had to detour or find a log to float us across. I feared crocs, hippos and snakes, they feared the water. We made slow progress.  Finally, we neared the part of the lake where I estimated that whatever I saw was headed. Mabuti spotted some high ground, so we paused for the night.  

As usual we were serenaded by the creatures of the night, including Mbjah told me hippos snorting on their feeding rounds.  Once or twice, we heard a loud honk. It sounded like a truck or train horn.  Mbjah and Mabuti talked it over in hushed tones. The two were trembling.  Mbjah indicated he did not recognize the sound. But if it was the mokele-mbembe, it was a great spirit of the forest that should not be disturbed. To do so would be to arouse nature’s wrath.  I was even more encouraged by his reaction, judging that the sight I had seen and now the sound was indeed mokele-mbembe.

The pygmies were delighted to stay in camp the next morning. I took my camera and went hunting.  I moved carefully through the reeds towards where I believed the honk originated. After an hour or two of slow stalking. I heard movement ahead. It seemed to be something big, sloshing through the reeds.  I aimed my camera at the noise. At first, I thought it was an elephant, but no, its bulk loomed bigger than that.  Suddenly a large head on a long neck rose above the swamp. There he was - mokele-mbembe! I snapped away madly while the beast carefully looked me over, then went about its business munching on reeds and grasses.  I inwardly rejoiced. I found it, I saw it, I had proof. My quest succeeded. My name was made!  I had to bite my tongue to keep from letting out a victory whoop.  The great beast moved further away from me into deeper swamp where I was reluctant to go. I took another dozen photos of it retreating.

Back at camp I showed the photos on the camera’s screen to Mbjah and Mabuti.  They marveled at the images but had no concept of what photos were. I said that my quest was finished and that we should move on in the morning. Mbjah said if we kept going east, we would soon meet a great river, which would lead us to towns. I will fall asleep tonight under the stars rejoicing in my victory.   

 

Note from the administrator of Hospital Impfondo to the U.S. Consul in Brazzaville:  The journal ends at this point.  We presume it belonged to George McCally because it was in the backpack with his possessions and passport when he arrived unconscious at our facility. McCally suffered from broken ribs, pelvis, backbone, and consequent internal bleeding. It appeared he had been trampled by a huge beast probably a hippo or elephant. He never regained consciousness and died the night of his arrival.  He was given a Christian burial in the hospital’s cemetery. McCally was brought to us in a pirogue down the Oubangui River by a Baptist pastor who lives in a northern village. The pastor said the man was carried into his village by two pygmies who reported that he had been trampled by an elephant while camping at night deep in the forest.  Although the journal fantasizes about a dinosaur and even purports to have photos of one, no camera was found among McCally’s effects.

Assal to Kilmanjaro on a bike?

 

A review of From Afar - One man’s human-powered adventure from the lowest point on the African continent to the summit of its highest mountain, a memoir by Kyle Henning, self-published, 2021.

 I enjoy African travel stories. In part this is because I traveled extensively in Africa including overland traverses of the continent from the Cape of Good Hope to Tangiers and from Mombasa to Doula.  I also often journeyed around East Africa, including Kenya’s forsaken northern deserts.  Finally, I too have stood on the salt shores of Lake Assal, the continent’s low point, and on the snows of Kilimanjaro, its highest. (Lake Assal in Djibouti, formerly the Territory of the Afars and Issas, provides the pun for the catchy title).  So, I was predisposed to like this memoir.

Henning was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Bahir Dar, Ethiopia, when he became fixated on a bicycle trip from Africa’s lowest point to its highest, i.e., Lake Assal to Kilimanjaro. He carefully planned, rode miles in preparation, acquired a suitable bike. Upon termination of his Peace Corps service – casting other alternatives aside - he put his dream into effect. Thus, the chronicle of the expedition begins. It was not an easy trip. It took a physical and psychological toll replete with second guessing about the quest, but he persevered. The memoir recounts numerous instances of challenges from people or equipment offset by unexpected generosity by strangers and friends alike.  Henning had a good eye for scenery, situations and events and describes them well.  Those stories are what combined to make the trek memorable.

The memoir is however, more than just the recitation of the trip it is also a record of Henning’s personal growth, of finding his way, floundering, and ultimately getting back on track.  A reader won’t be surprised to learn that he made it to the top of Kilimanjaro. 

 

The Delamere Chronicle - Life and Death in Kenya

 

A review of For Love of Soysambu -The Saga of Lord Delamere & His Descendants in Kenya by Juliet Barnes, Old Africa Books, Navaisha, Kenya, 2020.

The title says it all, this is a comprehensive documentation of the trials and tribulations – and successes – of the Delamere family of Kenya. The first Lord Delamere – D as he was called – set the stage with his outsized personality and utter devotion to making Kenya a viable entity, both agriculturally and politically.  D was an early settler arriving in what was to become Kenya in 1897.  D acquired vast tracks of land and spent the present-day equivalent of tens of millions of dollars over the next 35 years in trying to adapt the land to make it productive for crops and livestock.  Amidst many failures he enjoyed some successes and paved the way for others to succeed.  Indeed, he is the father of modern agriculture in East Africa. Prominently, he was a thorn in the side of the colonial government because he ardently agitated for European settler rights.  

Lord Delamere’s descendants: his son Tom, his grandson Hugh, his great grandson Tom, and great great grandson Hugh all inherited D’s mantle and mystique of aristocracy, money (whether or not there was any) and audaciousness. They all figure in this saga. They successively faced economic barriers posed by WWI, the Great Depression, WWII, Mau Mau, Independence, or present-day politics.  Under their various suzerainties, the home estate of Soysambu, several tens of thousands of acres in Kenya’s Great Rift Valley, prospered or didn’t, but it remained the family strong hold which it still is today.

In addition to detailing the economics and politics of past years author Barnes strings the story along by focusing on familial relationships, multiple marriages, liaisons, and friendships. It behooves the reader to have some understanding of Kenyan history and its settler society: the Happy Valley crowd and Lord Erroll’s murder, in order to put the saga into context.  Lacking such context readers might well be puzzled by all the intertangled personages. Similarly, the book lacks maps. If one does not know Kenya’s geography, figuring out where the various properties are located is bewildering. A map of Soysambu itself showing the locations of the various abodes discussed would also be useful.

Author Barnes drew extensively on conversations with Hugh (D’s grandson and the current Lord). She splices his (and wife Anne’s) comments into the chronological stream as it progresses.  This provides a bit of a seesaw effect but certainly adds candid perspective.   

A penultimate chapter in the book covers two deaths perpetrated by Tom (D’s great grandson).  First a Kenyan official was shot when conducting an apparently illegal raid, thought to be a robbery. After months in prison, Tom was not prosecuted for the death. Secondly, a year later Tom and a companion shot at poachers. One subsequently died. Because of his lineage and the fact that he was white there was again much public bruhaha over the death.  Tom was convicted of this death and served time in prison. I found it interesting that in a book replete with hundreds of names of individuals who figured into the Delamere saga that author Barnes did not name the companion present during the second death. Certainly, Barnes knew who was there. The man subsequently testified at the public trial but is never named in the book.  Research reveals that the man was Carl Tundo whose parents lived on Soysambu and were friends of the Delameres and the author.  There is no explanation as to why he was not mentioned in the book.

Throughout the book the fate of the vast lands of Soysambu figure time and again. Is it a farm, a ranch, a game preserve, a bird sanctuary or what? In its current configuration the estate is legally a conservancy designed to protect wildlife while allowing some cattle ranching.  The surrounding area is increasingly subdivided into small barely viable plots.  Whether or not Soysambu can withstand the land hunger and political pressures of modern Kenya remains to be seen.   

In conclusion For Love of Soysambu is an intriguing book. It melds together history, scandal, politics, conservation, agriculture, and the changing spectacle of Kenya. I enjoyed it.   

PCV Life in Kenya

 

A review of Jackson’s Kenya – A Peace Corps Story by Richard Otto Wiegand, www.safari-shamba-books.com, 2020.

 

I have long been awaiting a good Peace Corps memoir from Kenya. At last, one arrived in author Wiegand’s remembering his years in Kenya in the early 1970s.  Otto Wiegand was a dairy expert charged with improving animal husbandry in a half dozen of the Settlement Schemes in the trans-Nzoia region between Eldoret and Kitale.  As do most memoirs this one follows a hazy chronological order. The author recounts some events or anecdotes from the 70s and then updates them with a later observation or comment about how things changed or didn’t.  His Kenyan history of what went on around him is broad brushed, and accurate. It is not hard for the reader to put matters into that context.

More to the point, Wiegand’s reminisces about his life in Kenya are chock full of anecdotes about life in rural areas with rural folks. His guide to much of this was a man named Jackson, whom Wiegand employed as a cook, but who subsequently became a friend, Swahili teacher and guide to all things Kenyan – tribalism, corrupt politics, local customs, and culture. Wiegand’s experiences reflected a growing understanding of the environment he was in and with that understanding he became an increasingly effective volunteer. His recitation of the problems that small scale Kenyan farmers encountered clearly illustrated the complexities of economic development in third world countries. 

In addition to rural life, Wiegand recounts some of his travels and the young expatriate social context he enjoyed. All PCVs took advantage of East Africa’s magnificent possibilities – high mountains, terrific game parks, gorgeous beaches. The only error of fact I found in the book was geographical. Wiegand swaps the positions of Masaka and Mbarara, Uganda, in telling of a trip there. 

In summary, Wiegand does an excellent job of describing the life of a volunteer of that era in Kenya. He writes in a frank un-hyperbolic fashion that is a pleasure to read. 

A disclaimer – I was a PCV in the same part of Kenya in the years just before Wiegand arrived. We never met, but I installed the water systems on several of the Settlement Schemes – Ndalu and Kiminini - he worked as an extension agent. The memoir also mentions several volunteers from my group who hung on after I departed.

Gulu in the Rain

 

A review of I Miss the Rain in Africa by Nancy Daniel Wesson, Modern History Press, Ann Arbor, Mi, 2021. 

 

This memoir of Peace Corps service in Uganda in 2012/13 has the immediacy of a blog/diary from which it is drawn. Consequently, it is a cumulation of little horrors of third world poverty and ah-ha’s of cultural insight. Hyperbole characterizes the prose. Everything is reported in near breathless terms. That criticism aside, the author was a first-time visitor to Africa, and she was posted to a difficult place in a difficult time. 

Gulu, a city in northern Uganda was the locus of terrible troubles in the 1980s and 90s when the Lord’s Resistance Army terrorized the region, killing, kidnapping, looting and conscripting inhabitants. Many fled to the relative safety of the city but brought their personal trauma with them. This emotional climate then overlaid an urban environment where traditional values were already under siege from modernity.  Gulu was author Wesson’s posting. She worked for a non-governmental organization which promoted literacy.  Once she found her niche she contributed to the organization’s effectiveness.    She was especially proud of a program to develop libraries for children.

Much of the memoir focuses on the difficulty of life for a Peace Corps Volunteer: poor housing, urban noise, medical issues, food, weather, dreadful public transportation, and more.  Wesson was not an especially happy camper and called them like she saw them. Yet she recognized that Peace Corps was a lifechanging event and a learning experience for her.   I give her credit for hanging in.

The Peace Corps Gulu portion ends about half-way through the book. The remainder relates a bit back to it but continues with the author’s next life experiences.

Kudos for the Serpent

A review of The Serpent of the Nile from the Foreign Service Journal, November 2021.

 This taut thriller opens with Paul Simmons, a former Peace Corps volunteer who is now a Nairobi-based freelance journalist, being freed from captivity in South Sudan. Surprise: Someone doesn’t appreciate his dogged pursuit of stories of corruption, arms smuggling and human trafficking in that wartorn nation, the newest in Africa. But who? And who, or what, is the novel’s titular snake?

As Simmons gets caught up in the violence and intrigue that plague one of the world’s most desperate nations, Robert Gribbin introduces us to a kaleidoscopic cast that includes figures from the notorious Lord’s Resistance Army and some of their local victims, as well as government employees, British and American expatriates, missionaries and (fictional!) Embassy Juba personnel.

Set against the grim reality and history of the region, and drawing on the author’s decades of diplomacy in Africa, this novel accurately portrays the despair, hope and aspirations of South Sudan’s beleaguered people.

Ambassador (ret.) Robert Gribbin spent 35 years in East and Central Africa, first as a Peace Corps volunteer and then as a Foreign Service officer. He was posted to 15 African countries and served on delegations to the United Nations General Assembly and U.N. Human Rights Commission. He served as U.S. ambassador to Rwanda (1996-1999) and to the Central African Republic and occasionally takes on short-term assignments for the Department of State. He is the author of In the Aftermath of Genocide: The U.S. Role in Rwanda (2005), and novels: State of Decay (2003), Murder in Mombasa (2013) and The Last Rhino (2020).

Justice for Deborah

 

A review of American Taboo – A murder in the Peace Corps by Philip Weiss, Harper Collins, 2004.

 Following up my read of Every Hill a Burial Ground about a Peace Corps murder in Tanzania, a friend sent me this book about a Peace Corps murder in Tonga.

Indeed, there was a murder in Tonga, a very small Pacific Island nation, in 1975. Deborah Gardner, a Peace Corps teacher was murdered by a fellow volunteer, Dennis Priven. He even confessed. The saga, of course, was complicated. Deborah was a vivacious young lady, who enchanted all she met. Priven became smitten with her; enthusiasms she did not fully reciprocate. That seems to have been the underlying theme of the crime. She had other romantic entanglements but refused Priven.

The author painted a complicated scene of Peace Corps life in Tonga. It was a small place with many volunteers. They all knew each other and socialized together frequently.  Tonga is portrayed as a place where there were two types of volunteers – those who engaged in Tongan culture and those who disdained it, preferring the company of other expatriates.  The latter group and certainly some of the former often apparently engaged in drunken revelries and revolving relationships. It is not a pretty picture of Americans abroad. There is some, but not much revelation of what volunteers actually did or what contributions they made. Politically, however, the American presence was important to Tonga and vice versa. The Peace Corps was the tangible expression of America’s interest in the island nation. As it turned out, neither side wanted to lose that connection on account of a murder.

Everyone was, of course, shocked by the murder and the violence of it. Priven was quickly fingered and hunted around the island prior to his turning himself in. He confessed but said nothing further. The evidence was clear and incriminating: eyewitnesses placed him at the scene, his knife was the murder weapon and Deborah’s dying statement was that Dennis did it.

Tongan Peace Corps officials, with the backing of Peace Corps Washington, soon turned to facilitating, mounting and financing a defense of Priven, claiming that he was mentally impaired at the time. Truly, he was a troubled soul but was he crazy?  This defense took lots of maneuvering especially with psychological interventions at the trial but was ultimately successful.

All in all, American Taboo is a sordid tale where power and manipulation on the part of official Americans offset the delivery of justice under Tongan law. Tonga too was guilty of not wanting to hang an ugly American if the cost – justice for Deborah – was too high in terms of eliminating the Peace Corps presence and souring ties with the United States.  

Author Weiss did an astonishing amount of research for this book. Literally chasing down and interviewing dozens of folks who had little desire to relive these sordid events.  The book contains lots of details from overlapping and conflicting memories, after-the-fact justifications, and regrets. Sometimes it is too much. If, however, a reader wades through it all, the result remains disquieting; justice was not served.

Good review of new novel

 

Robert Gribbin, The Serpent of the Nile: A Novel of South Sudan.  A review by Alan G. Johnston.  Note:  both Robert Gribbin and Alan Johnston were in the Peace Corps group that arrived in Kenya in October 1968.  They both spent many years in Africa.

 

The last place that you want to end up is in a prison cell in some remote part of Africa, whether that cell is controlled by a rebel group, an opposition warlord, or a government.  Especially if you happen to be a journalist. Bad things happen in those cells. Yet that is exactly where we meet up with the protagonist of Robert Gribbin’s new novel, The Serpent of the Nile.  As he always does, Gribbin has used his lengthy experience in many parts of Africa, including South Sudan, to provide an authentic context for this tale of insurrection and intrigue in this unstable part of Africa.  By the time you have finished this short novel, much of which consists of a concise briefing on the history, culture and politics of South Sudan, you may feel ready to take up a diplomatic post in that country, but you will probably not want to do much investigative journalism there.

As it turns out, our as yet un-named journalist is soon let loose by his captor and led to the border by the captor’s son, Owino, so that the journalist can return to his base in Kenya to recover from this close call.  All the characters in this novel seem quite plausible, and Gribbin reviews a comprehensive list of foreign aid organizations, UN agencies, NGOs, and diplomats from across the globe that have assembled in Juba to somehow help build a new country.  The name Owino reminded me of my many Luo friends from Kenya who were serving in Juba as consultants and advisors; they even jokingly referred to Juba as “Little Kisumu.”  But after a short respite our free-lance journalist friend, Paul, who happens to be a Black American who served in the Peace Corps in Kenya and who can pass as a Kenyan when it serves his purposes, is back in Juba searching for a lead on some illegal Chinese dealings, a story that he can sell to the international press.

The main problem that I have with this novel is that it is too short.  It establishes a realistic context for the events of the novel, but three-quarters of the way through the book Paul is still not yet in the serious trouble that we know is coming.  A more elaborate rendition of the story would get us more invested in the characters and leave us even more astounded by the outcome.

It is quite possible to spend significant amounts of time in Africa and not realize the extent to which sorcery and various spirits have such a major influence for both good and evil.  Gribbin does not make that mistake.  The novel’s namesake Serpent of the Nile raises its head and has a practical impact at several key junctures in the story.  In fact, for many of the South Sudanese who we meet in these pages, their glimmer of hope for the future, in this otherwise forlorn country, rests in their eventual salvation by this very serpent.

A Peace Corps Death in Tanzania

 

A review of Every Hill a Burial Place – The Peace Corps Murder Trial in East Africa by Peter H. Reid, University Press of Kentucky, 2020.

On March 27, 1966, Peace Corps Volunteer teacher Peppy Kinsey died. She and her husband Bill went on a picnic to a rock outcropping near their home. They climbed the rock. Bill said he did not hear her fall, but realizing she was gone rushed to find her bleeding below, soon to die. Witnesses reported a struggle.  Police concluded the husband Bill Kinsey murdered his wife and not even from the top of the rock. Thus begins the saga of who said what, who saw what, what was the evidence, was there motive, and so forth. Most of the book is devoted to the case itself and how it unrolled in rural Africa where local police and prosecutors ended up facing off against sophisticated well financed experts – both in law and medicine. There is much redundancy. Author Reid goes over who said and saw what every time a different party provided input. It gets boring, especially the repetition of the medical evidence, but finally differences arising from that evidence proved crucial at the trial.  The author drew extensively from his own memories of the event, official transcripts, and notes of those who were engaged in the process. If nothing else the reader will learn a lot about East African jurisprudence.

A second part of the story relates how the Peace Corps as an institution reacted to the event. Was its responsibility to ensure justice for the dead woman and/or did Peace Corps have an obligation to support her volunteer husband against the charge of murder?  What to say publicly? What to communicate to PCVs in-country?  Initially the Peace Corps tried to walk a neutral line. Nonetheless, its staff both from Tanzania and Washington, were deeply involved in the case.  Peace Corps officials assumed that the very presence of Peace Corps in Tanzania was at stake. A murder conviction would besmirch and jeopardize the whole program.  They surmised that an extremely overt defense of Bill would antagonize the government of Tanzania as it would appear that the might of the U.S. government was being arrayed against an underdeveloped third world nation.  Washington officials also feared that a conviction and hanging would undermine the Peace Corps globally.

Part of the problem for the Peace Corps was that it did not have a policy for such an event. Although it scrabbled together a suitable response to this specific case, apparently, it never codified policies so would have to reinvent them in the years afterwards whenever PCVs got in similar predicaments.  A useful part of the long-after-the-fact analysis is a discussion of how Peace Corps responsibilities towards women volunteers – their health and safety – has evolved.

I won’t divulge the outcome of the trial. It indeed had some interesting twists. Readers who stick with the narrative will find this an engaging book. Based on the evidence, you get to arrive at your own judgement of what really happened.

As an aside, I wrote a book in novel form based on the murder of a woman in Mombasa, Kenya where an American sailor was accused and stood trial.  Ergo, I understood much of the arcana of East African jurisprudence and the tensions that arose when an American confronted a different judicial system and when political issues were also at play.  Murder in Mombasa (www.smashwords.com)     

Mystery and Mayhem in South Sudan

The Serpent of the Nile, available in paperback or ebook on Amazon.

 As reader of this blog might know I spent many years in East and Central Africa as a US diplomat, including a short tour in Juba.  This is my fourth novel all of which are set in Africa. A short summary of the book follows: 

Paul, a former Peace Corps Volunteer teacher in Kenya, is a Nairobi based free-lance journalist. He covered conflict in Somalia, Darfur, and the Congo, but with visions of a Pulitzer Prize he seeks to write a story of corruption and arms smuggling in South Sudan. Visiting that war-torn nation Paul finds that civil strife is real, and that violence has been endemic in the region for years. He gets schooled in the tortured history of the region and caught up in the senselessness of it. Villains abound. Yet there are those who seek to make their world a better place – outlier politicians, elders, reformers, feminists, entrepreneurs, and even a soldier.  Paul finds that a mysterious force for good based on an ancient legend is enthralling the people of Equatoria Province and threatening their Juba based political masters. Investigating this Paul links up with United Nations peacekeepers to visit the far-flung districts of South Sudan.  However, his very America/Kenyan presence causes him to become suspect in the eyes of the secret police, which leads to misfortune, threats to him and embassy personnel.  

Set against the grim reality and history of South Sudan, this novel accurately portrays the despair, hope and aspiration of the nation’s beleaguered people.  

 

Grogan's Epic Walk

 

A review of Crossing the Heart of Africa – An Odyssey of Love and Adventure by Julian Smith, Harper Collins, NY, 2010

 

Readers, if any, of this blog will recognize that I enjoy books about travel in Africa. This is an interesting one. Author Smith’s gimmick is that he retraces the epic 1898 journey of Ewart Grogan, who walked from Cape to Cairo in order to secure the hand of the woman he loved. Smith too parallels Grogan’s quest, not only the route up the spine of Africa but with reflections on his relationship with the woman he is soon to marry.  I was not smitten with Smith’s romantic musings, but I did enjoy the alternating segments of what Grogan endured (and wrote about) and what Smith encountered. Obviously much had changed, especially in terms of transportation – Grogan walked while Smith used public conveyances – bikes, buses, boats, planes, which were much, much faster.  Smith’s journey is fleshed out by sporadic conversations with Africans that shed light on topics of the day whereas Grogan’s encounters with locals were often threatening, dangerous, and ultimately resolved through violence.

After Grogan succeeded in his quest (Smith stopped short), he did marry his beloved Gertrude (Smith married his love too). The Grogans moved to Kenya where the two became notable personages in the settler community. Grogan was a thorn in the government’s side, but a successful entrepreneur both in business and agriculture.  Among his efforts were vast sisal plantations in the area around Taveta on the Kenyan/Tanzanian border.  There he built an imposing house, dubbed Grogan’s castle, on a barren hilltop.  I was stationed in Mombasa from 1981-84 and visited the abandoned and dilapidating “castle” on several occasions.  It was indeed testimony to a vanished era and a monument to a remarkable man.

A sordid past of racism and paternalism

 

A review of Empires in the Sun by Lawrence James,Pegasus Books, NY, 2017 

This is an interesting history of Africa told from the perspective of the colonial powers. Even though events on the continent are clearly the focus of the record, author James relates how European nations viewed and constructed their empires, and then saw them dissolved.  Much of their considerations for empire were justified by “mission civilsatrice” but the underlying reasons were purely political and economic arising from inter European competition, not just for global standing but also for validation of their respective national cultures. For most of the several hundred years covered by the book Africans were depicted as sub-human, ignorant, pliable, savage, etc. Yet throughout James cites how Africans were progressing in defiance of such stereotyping.  And stereotyping it was. I was intrigued by the accounts of how popular media – newspapers, personal accounts, novels, films, comic books, expositions, etc.- shaped European popular views of backward Africans and how such media supported and endorsed governmental aspirations and policies to subjugate the continent.  It is an astonishing portrait of racism.

The history begins in the fifteenth century and progresses into the independence era. It deals with discovery, partition, colonialism, the awaking of independence consciousness, the impact of two world wars, the cold war, wars of independence and finally the end of apartheid.

I found several small errors of fact, but was dismayed by the cover map which neglects to depict the nation of South Sudan. In 2017, the date of publication, South Sudan had been independent for over five years.

This chronicle is detailed, sometimes too much so. The narrative jumps around from place to place in Africa and from year to year. Certainly, a reader needs already to have a solid background in African history to appreciate such convolutions.  That being said, I found the book readable and provocative because it does indeed elaborate on a long missing perspective on the history of the continent.  

Intrigue and Murder - What is Rwanda up to?

 

A review of Do Not Disturb – The Story of a Political Murder and an African Regime Gone Bad by Michela Wrong, Public Affairs, NY, 2021.

 This is a critical expose of Rwandan President Paul Kagame and his iron rule of his nation. The departure point for the critique is the 2014 murder of Patrick Karegeya in a Johannesburg Hotel.  Karegeya was a Kagame’s former colleague and chief of external security for Rwanda. But like several other of the regime’s founding fathers, Karegeya ran afoul of strong man Kagame. Patrick was imprisoned, humiliated, and fled into exile where he was executed by agents of the Rwandan regime.

The thrust of the book is to document how it all came to happen. Author Wrong earned investigative journalism stars by interviewing hundreds of Rwandans and Ugandans who were intimately connected to the story. They praised the personality, the ebullience and intelligence of Karegeya and detailed his slowly simmering disenchantment with the Tutsi regime that he helped construct.  Ultimately, Karegeya fell victim to the type of extrajudicial killing that he himself had once supervised. It was an ironic end.

Author Wrong digs deep into various personages involved, especially focusing on current president Paul Kagame. He is portrayed as cunning, vindictive, callous, and aloof. And he was like that from his youth. As president he fed on suspicions and rumors and then ordered actions to demean, imprison or kill his supposed adversaries. It is a troubling portrait of a man with too much unbridled power.

In contrast to Kagame was Fred Rwigyema, the initial leader of the Rwandan Patriotic Army who died during the first days of the invasion in 1990. Fred is portrayed as a uniter, a commander beloved by his troops. A martyr to the Tutsi cause, in speculative retrospect Rwigyema would have been a different type of president.

I found the history of how the various RPA stalwarts grew up in Uganda and how they interacted with each other from an early age to be instructive. Particularly pertinent was their various roles during their adhesion to Museveni’s National Resistance Army and their relationships to Ugandan heavyweights. 

Author Wrong marshals her anti-Kagame denunciation with statements from other once prominent Rwandans who too were chased away by Kagame.  Some like Hutu politician Seth Sendashonga (and presumably Karegeya who organized an exiled political party) were murdered because they posed a legitimate threat.  Others, however, became disenchanted with the direction Kagame was taking the nation, were associated with real dissenters or just ran afoul of Kagame’s intolerance for views other than his own.  The totality of the accusations reveals a policy of carefully choreographed – but often inane - plots designed to kill exiled opponents.   It is a stinging indictment of Kagame and of his ruling style.  

Disclaimer. I was the U.S. Ambassador in Rwanda during the early years of renewed Tutsi rule just after the genocide. I knew Patrick Karegeya, then-Vice President Paul Kagame, and many of those whose stories and comments also appear in the book. I understood at the time that Rwandans could be duplicitous and that they valued an ability to obfuscate, for example regarding Rwanda’s heavy handedness in quashing the northern insurgency or involvement in neighboring Zaire (now Congo). Although during my time strains were evident with regard to Hutu political personages and Tutsi survivors, the core Rwandan Patriotic Army team appeared to be solid. They adhered unwaveringly to the established party line.  The sorts of internal fallings-out that Michela Wrong reports did not reveal themselves until later.

Patrick Karegeya was head of the External Security Service. In that capacity I had dealings with him. He was most helpful on August 7, 1998 the day the American embassies in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam were blown up. We in Kigali feared that we might too be on a terrorist list. In addition to a quick response from the military to safeguard our premises, Patrick assured me that no Al Qaeda operatives were in Rwanda.

 Comment: This book is quite critical of Paul Kagame in both a personal and policy sense. It is accurate, at least in the sense that it sums up the experience of those who fell afoul of the regime and were/are pursued for it. The indictment is overwhelming. As is probably obvious (and footnoted), many comments were made anonymously.  Such information strengthens the argument, but anonymity undermines it at the same time.  I am not sure what the other side of the coin is but would urge readers to reflect that there might be one.

Error:  In the chapter on genocide, Wrong writes that “French, Belgian and American nationals were airlifted to safety…” True most French and Belgians flew out, but the Americans left via an overland convoy to Burundi.

Omission: I am sorry that Author Wrong did not consult my book In the Aftermath of Genocide – The U.S. Role in Rwanda. There are several tidbits in there such as the saga of how Rwigyema’s assignment to the U.S. Command General Staff College was swapped to Kagame or more on how ADFL leader Laurent Kabila came to U.S. attention.  

Final comment: State ordered extrajudicial killings have become all too common, viz in addition to Rwanda, add Saudi Arabia, Russia, Israel and unfortunately the United States.  Aside from highlighting the issue, what can be done to halt the practice?

Hemingway in Africa

 

A review of True at First Light by Ernest Hemingway, Scriber, NY, 1999.

Everything you wanted to know about a hunting camp on the slopes of Mt. Kilimanjaro in 1953.  This fictional memoir as it is described is drawn from the journals of Ernest Hemingway. The material was edited down posthumously by his son Patrick, himself a big game hunter in East Africa. The book was published in 1999 long after Hemingway’s death in 1961.  Yet the work harks back accurately to the fifties. It is full of description, dialogue and anecdotes.

There is essentially no plot. The first half of the book revolves around securing a lion for Mary to kill and the second half about preparations for Christmas.  There is ongoing dialogue, way too much of it I thought, between Ernest and Mary and amongst others. But that is how the story, such as it is, progresses.  You learn that Hemingway drank, slept, ruminated, hunted, bickered with Mary and had eyes for a Kamba girl. You learn that he had – for the era – surprisingly positive relationships with his employees. He treated everyone with dignity and evidently enjoyed real friendships with several.  However, he was still the Bwana, the proprietor of the camp and the employer. So, he was apparently loved and respected, but always with a bit of caution. Nonetheless Hemingway sought to ingratiate himself with those around him. He appeared to enjoy the status of being the Bwana without the burden of being a famous writer.

When the journal turns to hunting, it is spot on, obviously based on real encounters and legitimate understanding of the process.  Hemingway’s portrayals of the Kamba and Maasai people indicates astute observation and grasp of their respective cultures.   The material is occasionally humorous in some overblown descriptions of characters or actions but also in the ongoing joke of Hemingway being central to his own fictitious religion

I happened to be reading this book – that I found in searching a library website – when the PBS series on Hemingway was broadcast. In reality, Hemingway did spend months in Kenya in 1953 running the hunting camp he so ably describes.  During this period, his marriage to Mary was in trouble, but there is only a glimmer of that in the book. As part of an effort to salvage it, the two took a small aircraft to see Murchison Falls in Uganda.  The plane crashed there as did their rescue plane upon taking off.  Hemingway suffered brain injuries that would only manifest themselves over time. To recuperate he installed himself in a fishing lodge at Shimoni on the Kenyan coast where he drank copiously for months. Mary left him.

I doubt if True at First Light adds much to Hemingway’s literary reputation. It is in fact what it purports to be - a fictional memoir.  It is kind of interesting, but not gripping. Parts are boring. Only African or Hemingway aficionados will enjoy it.  

A tramp across Africa

 

A review of Walking the Nile by Levison Wood, Grove Atlantic, NY, 2015

 

As the title indicates this book is a travelogue. Intrepid walker Lev Wood undertook to trudge alongside the Nile, as close as paths and roads permitted, from its initial spring in the hills of Rwanda to its delta on the Mediterranean Sea. All told it was a trip of 4800 miles and took eight months. Along the way, Wood met many friendly folks, some unfriendly ones, and a host of suspicious government officials. He was feted, praised, and welcomed in some communities and viewed cautiously or even hostilely in others. All asked, why would anyone, especially a white man, walk such a distance? It was puzzling.  Wood himself had no clear answer, except that was what he was doing. It was his adventure and quest.

Wood was in Rwanda twenty years after the genocide, yet the vestiges of it lingered. He trekked through miserable heat in northern Uganda and lost a companion to heat stroke. He found an ongoing civil war in South Sudan and had to skip a most dangerous section. He crossed the deserts of Sudan and Egypt. In Egypt especially he was frustrated by excessive suspicion and bureaucracy. Finally, he made it to the sea.

All told it was indeed an epic journey and Wood recounts it well – the trials, tribulations, inner worries, interactions with those who accompanied him and with people he met along the way. I know five of the six nations he traversed so I pulled out my maps and vicariously enjoyed the journey.    

Not all who wander are lost

 

A review of The Explorers by Martin Dugard, Simon & Schuster, NY, 2014.

 

Author Dugard uses the conflict between 19^th century searchers for the source of the Nile Richard Burton and John Hanning Specke as the vehicle to delve into the exploits and psyches of explorers writ large. He covers personalities including St. Brennan, Columbus, Cook, Livingstone, Scott, Shackleford, Hillary and Lindbergh.  He is interested not just in what they did and the often-awful trials and hardships they endured, but what made them tic? What made them - self-selected for the most part – devote themselves to exploration?  What motivated them?  To answer these questions, Dugard dipped into both physical and psychological explanations. How did their brains work and function differently from others?  What truly motivated them? He concluded it was not riches or fame, but the completion of the quest itself.  This is aptly demonstrated in the saga of Burton and Specke, two men of decidedly different temperament who yet united in the quest to unravel a great mystery of their age – the source of the Nile. Dugard keeps the Specke/Burton theme ongoing throughout the book even as he illustrates characteristics exemplified by them in other notable explorers.

I thought the book wandered around too much. It is not chronological. Additionally, I thought Dugard over-analyzed the psyches and motivations of people long dead on flimsy evidence.  That being said, I enjoyed the various thumbnail sketches of famous explorers, where they went, what they endured and what they accomplished.     

 

Military Prowess - German Resilience in East Africa

 

A review of African Kaiser – General Paul Von Lettow-Vorbeck and the Great War in Africa, 1914-1918 by Robert Gaudi, Caliber, NY, 2017.

This is a fascinating account of the life and war of  Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck, the German commander in East Africa who fought and strategically retreated, effectively stymieing Allied forces hundreds of times larger for years. The only undefeated German commander in the war, von Lettow-Vorbeck surrendered his troops in (then) northern Rhodesia days after the armistice was signed in Europe.  A genuine military genius and heroic leader, von Lottow-Vorbeck, while personable in a social context, could be cold, calculating, and ruthless in pursuit of military objectives.

Scion of a Prussian aristocratic family, like many of his forbearers Paul was destined to be a soldier.  His route into the German military establishment in the 1880s was typical, but he yearned for action. He gained overseas experience in China during the Boxer Rebellion. He also saw service in German South West Africa in the early 1900s combatting Herero and Hottentot uprisings. Author Gaudi details these formative experiences which gave von Lettow-Vorbeck insight into foreign cultures and methods of combat. These insights helped him frame the tactics he would use against superior forces during WWI.

Colonel von Lettow-Vorbeck became military commander in German East Africa in 1914. As the world tumbled towards war, he prepared for conflict.  His approach stood in stark contrast to Heinrick Schnee, Germany’s Governor of the colony who advocated neutrality.  Although on the same side, the two would continue to differ throughout the war. Lettow-Vorbeck’s plan was to engage British forces, to draw them into conflict, to compel Britain to deploy massive numbers of troops and resources to engage him. He doubted if he could win a campaign. However, his calculus was to the extent that Allied resources were tied up in East Africa they would not be available for the war in Europe.  This premise proved to be correct.

Initially von Lettow-Vorbeck had a small force of less than three thousand Germans and about ten thousand African troops.  His use of black troops was derided by racist British adversaries, but he knew they were loyal to him and could fight.  Of course, this number dwindled enormously over the course of the war. Ultimately, British Empire forces engaged in the chase numbered over three hundred thousand, plus naval assets deployed to control the Indian Ocean.

The history of the war which author Gaudi recounts in detail tells of several major confrontations such as the British attacks on Tanga and Taveta. Beyond that he personalizes the conflict and key people involved, especially von Lettow-Vorbeck.  Gaudi draws on official documents, diaries, and memoirs from both sides of the conflict to elucidate not just on tactics, but also emotions, pains and reflections.  The violence of war was horrible for all involved. Even so, it was the hardship of the bush that was most debilitating to both sides. Diseases of all types, especially malaria, killed thousands. Lack of food, ammunition and equipment especially plagued the isolated Germans.  At one point during the war the high command in Berlin authorized a zeppelin, flying from Europe, to resupply the beleaguered forces but it never arrived.  Similarly, Gaudi tells the saga of the British search and destroy effort aimed at the German battleship Konigsberg which took refuge in the Rufiji River delta.  After the ship was sunk, Germans put her big guns on carriages and used them effectively in succeeding years.

In summary, African Kaiser, is a definitive biography of Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck and a superb history of World War One in Africa.  I pulled out my maps of East Africa, tracked the action and thoroughly enjoyed the read.