A Peace Corps Death in Tanzania

 

A review of Every Hill a Burial Place – The Peace Corps Murder Trial in East Africa by Peter H. Reid, University Press of Kentucky, 2020.

On March 27, 1966, Peace Corps Volunteer teacher Peppy Kinsey died. She and her husband Bill went on a picnic to a rock outcropping near their home. They climbed the rock. Bill said he did not hear her fall, but realizing she was gone rushed to find her bleeding below, soon to die. Witnesses reported a struggle.  Police concluded the husband Bill Kinsey murdered his wife and not even from the top of the rock. Thus begins the saga of who said what, who saw what, what was the evidence, was there motive, and so forth. Most of the book is devoted to the case itself and how it unrolled in rural Africa where local police and prosecutors ended up facing off against sophisticated well financed experts – both in law and medicine. There is much redundancy. Author Reid goes over who said and saw what every time a different party provided input. It gets boring, especially the repetition of the medical evidence, but finally differences arising from that evidence proved crucial at the trial.  The author drew extensively from his own memories of the event, official transcripts, and notes of those who were engaged in the process. If nothing else the reader will learn a lot about East African jurisprudence.

A second part of the story relates how the Peace Corps as an institution reacted to the event. Was its responsibility to ensure justice for the dead woman and/or did Peace Corps have an obligation to support her volunteer husband against the charge of murder?  What to say publicly? What to communicate to PCVs in-country?  Initially the Peace Corps tried to walk a neutral line. Nonetheless, its staff both from Tanzania and Washington, were deeply involved in the case.  Peace Corps officials assumed that the very presence of Peace Corps in Tanzania was at stake. A murder conviction would besmirch and jeopardize the whole program.  They surmised that an extremely overt defense of Bill would antagonize the government of Tanzania as it would appear that the might of the U.S. government was being arrayed against an underdeveloped third world nation.  Washington officials also feared that a conviction and hanging would undermine the Peace Corps globally.

Part of the problem for the Peace Corps was that it did not have a policy for such an event. Although it scrabbled together a suitable response to this specific case, apparently, it never codified policies so would have to reinvent them in the years afterwards whenever PCVs got in similar predicaments.  A useful part of the long-after-the-fact analysis is a discussion of how Peace Corps responsibilities towards women volunteers – their health and safety – has evolved.

I won’t divulge the outcome of the trial. It indeed had some interesting twists. Readers who stick with the narrative will find this an engaging book. Based on the evidence, you get to arrive at your own judgement of what really happened.

As an aside, I wrote a book in novel form based on the murder of a woman in Mombasa, Kenya where an American sailor was accused and stood trial.  Ergo, I understood much of the arcana of East African jurisprudence and the tensions that arose when an American confronted a different judicial system and when political issues were also at play.  Murder in Mombasa (www.smashwords.com)     

Mystery and Mayhem in South Sudan

The Serpent of the Nile, available in paperback or ebook on Amazon.

 As reader of this blog might know I spent many years in East and Central Africa as a US diplomat, including a short tour in Juba.  This is my fourth novel all of which are set in Africa. A short summary of the book follows: 

Paul, a former Peace Corps Volunteer teacher in Kenya, is a Nairobi based free-lance journalist. He covered conflict in Somalia, Darfur, and the Congo, but with visions of a Pulitzer Prize he seeks to write a story of corruption and arms smuggling in South Sudan. Visiting that war-torn nation Paul finds that civil strife is real, and that violence has been endemic in the region for years. He gets schooled in the tortured history of the region and caught up in the senselessness of it. Villains abound. Yet there are those who seek to make their world a better place – outlier politicians, elders, reformers, feminists, entrepreneurs, and even a soldier.  Paul finds that a mysterious force for good based on an ancient legend is enthralling the people of Equatoria Province and threatening their Juba based political masters. Investigating this Paul links up with United Nations peacekeepers to visit the far-flung districts of South Sudan.  However, his very America/Kenyan presence causes him to become suspect in the eyes of the secret police, which leads to misfortune, threats to him and embassy personnel.  

Set against the grim reality and history of South Sudan, this novel accurately portrays the despair, hope and aspiration of the nation’s beleaguered people.  

 

Grogan's Epic Walk

 

A review of Crossing the Heart of Africa – An Odyssey of Love and Adventure by Julian Smith, Harper Collins, NY, 2010

 

Readers, if any, of this blog will recognize that I enjoy books about travel in Africa. This is an interesting one. Author Smith’s gimmick is that he retraces the epic 1898 journey of Ewart Grogan, who walked from Cape to Cairo in order to secure the hand of the woman he loved. Smith too parallels Grogan’s quest, not only the route up the spine of Africa but with reflections on his relationship with the woman he is soon to marry.  I was not smitten with Smith’s romantic musings, but I did enjoy the alternating segments of what Grogan endured (and wrote about) and what Smith encountered. Obviously much had changed, especially in terms of transportation – Grogan walked while Smith used public conveyances – bikes, buses, boats, planes, which were much, much faster.  Smith’s journey is fleshed out by sporadic conversations with Africans that shed light on topics of the day whereas Grogan’s encounters with locals were often threatening, dangerous, and ultimately resolved through violence.

After Grogan succeeded in his quest (Smith stopped short), he did marry his beloved Gertrude (Smith married his love too). The Grogans moved to Kenya where the two became notable personages in the settler community. Grogan was a thorn in the government’s side, but a successful entrepreneur both in business and agriculture.  Among his efforts were vast sisal plantations in the area around Taveta on the Kenyan/Tanzanian border.  There he built an imposing house, dubbed Grogan’s castle, on a barren hilltop.  I was stationed in Mombasa from 1981-84 and visited the abandoned and dilapidating “castle” on several occasions.  It was indeed testimony to a vanished era and a monument to a remarkable man.

A sordid past of racism and paternalism

 

A review of Empires in the Sun by Lawrence James,Pegasus Books, NY, 2017 

This is an interesting history of Africa told from the perspective of the colonial powers. Even though events on the continent are clearly the focus of the record, author James relates how European nations viewed and constructed their empires, and then saw them dissolved.  Much of their considerations for empire were justified by “mission civilsatrice” but the underlying reasons were purely political and economic arising from inter European competition, not just for global standing but also for validation of their respective national cultures. For most of the several hundred years covered by the book Africans were depicted as sub-human, ignorant, pliable, savage, etc. Yet throughout James cites how Africans were progressing in defiance of such stereotyping.  And stereotyping it was. I was intrigued by the accounts of how popular media – newspapers, personal accounts, novels, films, comic books, expositions, etc.- shaped European popular views of backward Africans and how such media supported and endorsed governmental aspirations and policies to subjugate the continent.  It is an astonishing portrait of racism.

The history begins in the fifteenth century and progresses into the independence era. It deals with discovery, partition, colonialism, the awaking of independence consciousness, the impact of two world wars, the cold war, wars of independence and finally the end of apartheid.

I found several small errors of fact, but was dismayed by the cover map which neglects to depict the nation of South Sudan. In 2017, the date of publication, South Sudan had been independent for over five years.

This chronicle is detailed, sometimes too much so. The narrative jumps around from place to place in Africa and from year to year. Certainly, a reader needs already to have a solid background in African history to appreciate such convolutions.  That being said, I found the book readable and provocative because it does indeed elaborate on a long missing perspective on the history of the continent.  

Intrigue and Murder - What is Rwanda up to?

 

A review of Do Not Disturb – The Story of a Political Murder and an African Regime Gone Bad by Michela Wrong, Public Affairs, NY, 2021.

 This is a critical expose of Rwandan President Paul Kagame and his iron rule of his nation. The departure point for the critique is the 2014 murder of Patrick Karegeya in a Johannesburg Hotel.  Karegeya was a Kagame’s former colleague and chief of external security for Rwanda. But like several other of the regime’s founding fathers, Karegeya ran afoul of strong man Kagame. Patrick was imprisoned, humiliated, and fled into exile where he was executed by agents of the Rwandan regime.

The thrust of the book is to document how it all came to happen. Author Wrong earned investigative journalism stars by interviewing hundreds of Rwandans and Ugandans who were intimately connected to the story. They praised the personality, the ebullience and intelligence of Karegeya and detailed his slowly simmering disenchantment with the Tutsi regime that he helped construct.  Ultimately, Karegeya fell victim to the type of extrajudicial killing that he himself had once supervised. It was an ironic end.

Author Wrong digs deep into various personages involved, especially focusing on current president Paul Kagame. He is portrayed as cunning, vindictive, callous, and aloof. And he was like that from his youth. As president he fed on suspicions and rumors and then ordered actions to demean, imprison or kill his supposed adversaries. It is a troubling portrait of a man with too much unbridled power.

In contrast to Kagame was Fred Rwigyema, the initial leader of the Rwandan Patriotic Army who died during the first days of the invasion in 1990. Fred is portrayed as a uniter, a commander beloved by his troops. A martyr to the Tutsi cause, in speculative retrospect Rwigyema would have been a different type of president.

I found the history of how the various RPA stalwarts grew up in Uganda and how they interacted with each other from an early age to be instructive. Particularly pertinent was their various roles during their adhesion to Museveni’s National Resistance Army and their relationships to Ugandan heavyweights. 

Author Wrong marshals her anti-Kagame denunciation with statements from other once prominent Rwandans who too were chased away by Kagame.  Some like Hutu politician Seth Sendashonga (and presumably Karegeya who organized an exiled political party) were murdered because they posed a legitimate threat.  Others, however, became disenchanted with the direction Kagame was taking the nation, were associated with real dissenters or just ran afoul of Kagame’s intolerance for views other than his own.  The totality of the accusations reveals a policy of carefully choreographed – but often inane - plots designed to kill exiled opponents.   It is a stinging indictment of Kagame and of his ruling style.  

Disclaimer. I was the U.S. Ambassador in Rwanda during the early years of renewed Tutsi rule just after the genocide. I knew Patrick Karegeya, then-Vice President Paul Kagame, and many of those whose stories and comments also appear in the book. I understood at the time that Rwandans could be duplicitous and that they valued an ability to obfuscate, for example regarding Rwanda’s heavy handedness in quashing the northern insurgency or involvement in neighboring Zaire (now Congo). Although during my time strains were evident with regard to Hutu political personages and Tutsi survivors, the core Rwandan Patriotic Army team appeared to be solid. They adhered unwaveringly to the established party line.  The sorts of internal fallings-out that Michela Wrong reports did not reveal themselves until later.

Patrick Karegeya was head of the External Security Service. In that capacity I had dealings with him. He was most helpful on August 7, 1998 the day the American embassies in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam were blown up. We in Kigali feared that we might too be on a terrorist list. In addition to a quick response from the military to safeguard our premises, Patrick assured me that no Al Qaeda operatives were in Rwanda.

 Comment: This book is quite critical of Paul Kagame in both a personal and policy sense. It is accurate, at least in the sense that it sums up the experience of those who fell afoul of the regime and were/are pursued for it. The indictment is overwhelming. As is probably obvious (and footnoted), many comments were made anonymously.  Such information strengthens the argument, but anonymity undermines it at the same time.  I am not sure what the other side of the coin is but would urge readers to reflect that there might be one.

Error:  In the chapter on genocide, Wrong writes that “French, Belgian and American nationals were airlifted to safety…” True most French and Belgians flew out, but the Americans left via an overland convoy to Burundi.

Omission: I am sorry that Author Wrong did not consult my book In the Aftermath of Genocide – The U.S. Role in Rwanda. There are several tidbits in there such as the saga of how Rwigyema’s assignment to the U.S. Command General Staff College was swapped to Kagame or more on how ADFL leader Laurent Kabila came to U.S. attention.  

Final comment: State ordered extrajudicial killings have become all too common, viz in addition to Rwanda, add Saudi Arabia, Russia, Israel and unfortunately the United States.  Aside from highlighting the issue, what can be done to halt the practice?

Hemingway in Africa

 

A review of True at First Light by Ernest Hemingway, Scriber, NY, 1999.

Everything you wanted to know about a hunting camp on the slopes of Mt. Kilimanjaro in 1953.  This fictional memoir as it is described is drawn from the journals of Ernest Hemingway. The material was edited down posthumously by his son Patrick, himself a big game hunter in East Africa. The book was published in 1999 long after Hemingway’s death in 1961.  Yet the work harks back accurately to the fifties. It is full of description, dialogue and anecdotes.

There is essentially no plot. The first half of the book revolves around securing a lion for Mary to kill and the second half about preparations for Christmas.  There is ongoing dialogue, way too much of it I thought, between Ernest and Mary and amongst others. But that is how the story, such as it is, progresses.  You learn that Hemingway drank, slept, ruminated, hunted, bickered with Mary and had eyes for a Kamba girl. You learn that he had – for the era – surprisingly positive relationships with his employees. He treated everyone with dignity and evidently enjoyed real friendships with several.  However, he was still the Bwana, the proprietor of the camp and the employer. So, he was apparently loved and respected, but always with a bit of caution. Nonetheless Hemingway sought to ingratiate himself with those around him. He appeared to enjoy the status of being the Bwana without the burden of being a famous writer.

When the journal turns to hunting, it is spot on, obviously based on real encounters and legitimate understanding of the process.  Hemingway’s portrayals of the Kamba and Maasai people indicates astute observation and grasp of their respective cultures.   The material is occasionally humorous in some overblown descriptions of characters or actions but also in the ongoing joke of Hemingway being central to his own fictitious religion

I happened to be reading this book – that I found in searching a library website – when the PBS series on Hemingway was broadcast. In reality, Hemingway did spend months in Kenya in 1953 running the hunting camp he so ably describes.  During this period, his marriage to Mary was in trouble, but there is only a glimmer of that in the book. As part of an effort to salvage it, the two took a small aircraft to see Murchison Falls in Uganda.  The plane crashed there as did their rescue plane upon taking off.  Hemingway suffered brain injuries that would only manifest themselves over time. To recuperate he installed himself in a fishing lodge at Shimoni on the Kenyan coast where he drank copiously for months. Mary left him.

I doubt if True at First Light adds much to Hemingway’s literary reputation. It is in fact what it purports to be - a fictional memoir.  It is kind of interesting, but not gripping. Parts are boring. Only African or Hemingway aficionados will enjoy it.  

A tramp across Africa

 

A review of Walking the Nile by Levison Wood, Grove Atlantic, NY, 2015

 

As the title indicates this book is a travelogue. Intrepid walker Lev Wood undertook to trudge alongside the Nile, as close as paths and roads permitted, from its initial spring in the hills of Rwanda to its delta on the Mediterranean Sea. All told it was a trip of 4800 miles and took eight months. Along the way, Wood met many friendly folks, some unfriendly ones, and a host of suspicious government officials. He was feted, praised, and welcomed in some communities and viewed cautiously or even hostilely in others. All asked, why would anyone, especially a white man, walk such a distance? It was puzzling.  Wood himself had no clear answer, except that was what he was doing. It was his adventure and quest.

Wood was in Rwanda twenty years after the genocide, yet the vestiges of it lingered. He trekked through miserable heat in northern Uganda and lost a companion to heat stroke. He found an ongoing civil war in South Sudan and had to skip a most dangerous section. He crossed the deserts of Sudan and Egypt. In Egypt especially he was frustrated by excessive suspicion and bureaucracy. Finally, he made it to the sea.

All told it was indeed an epic journey and Wood recounts it well – the trials, tribulations, inner worries, interactions with those who accompanied him and with people he met along the way. I know five of the six nations he traversed so I pulled out my maps and vicariously enjoyed the journey.