Farce or Lark? - Roosevelt's African Safari

 

A review of Hunting for Teddy Roosevelt by James Ross, Regal House Publishing, 2020.

 

     This is an interestingly odd book. It is fiction intertwined with bits of real history. The basic premise comes from Theodore Roosevelt’s African safari which he undertook in 1909 after finishing his second term as president.  Roosevelt took the trip to escape from the pressures of politics and to reflect upon his decision not to seek a third term. All this comes out in the book. The fictional plot revolves around efforts to assassinate the ex-president and his uncanny ability to escape.  The depiction of Roosevelt is believable, but other characters are not as well drawn.

     In reality on this safari Roosevelt did indeed slaughter thousands of animals purportedly at the request of the Smithsonian Institute which wanted specimens for its collection. Roosevelt’s actual recollections of hunting encounters are used to lead into various chapters.  His son Elliot accompanies him (true) and they do have an odd (fictional) encounter with Paul von Lettow (a real German military officer who commanded the German army in East Africa during World War I). Other characters – journalist Maggie Ryan, various safari personnel, the assassin, etc. are all fictional.

     Although the story did move along satisfactorily, I became captivated by the errors, dissidences and leaps of credibility that abound in the book. Some misrepresentations can be attributed to the various characters, but most are the responsibility of the author.  The book is fiction, of course, and the author is entitled to rearrange geography and cultures as desired or necessary for the story, but I found that such shortcomings substantially distracted from the gist of the tale. For example:

Outlining the intended itinerary from the African highlands, to the Serengeti, to Mt. Kilimanjaro and then Lake Victoria, zig zags Kenya’s geography.

Tuaregs are described as slavers in Sudan.  In reality they live in the central Sahara, two thousand miles west.

Roosevelt rode on the “railroad linking Nairobi to Lake Albert.”  The rail line did pass through Nairobi, but it linked Mombasa to Lake Victoria.

The Swahili word “pembe” was employed at least six times to refer to local alcoholic beverages. “Pembe” means horn or antlers. The correct word is “pombe.”

TR is credited with staying on a sisal farm in the Aberdares.  That area is much too cold and wet for sisal.

“Faru” is used instead of “Kifaru” for rhino. Africans would have used the correct term.

There are several references to the Congo Free State owned by King Leopold of Belgium. At the time of Roosevelt’s safari, the Congo had been taken over by the Belgian government as a colony.

A lion hunt is described as “simba kuwinda” i.e. lion to hunt, correct would be “kuwinda simba” to hunt lion (object not subject).

Author Ross puts the Samburu people from northern Kenya in Kamba country (just outside Nairobi). Also, it is proposed to resettle them from there to Muranga so to free arable land for white settlers.  That is all wrong, the arid Athi Plains where the Samburu ostensibly lived were unsuitable for farming whereas Muranga is prime agricultural territory. The fact that Muranga, even then, was well populated by Kikuyu people is ignored. Later the author places the Kamba in Tanganyika. Why not just deal with the people who really lived there – the Kamba and Maasai people of the Athi/Amboseli area and the Chaga in Tanganyika

On several occasions the author refers to “mimosa” trees and “fire” ants. There were no mimosa trees in Africa at the time. Fire ants is an American, not an African term.

Author Ross describes the bandits encountered in Sudan over and over as Fulani. The Fulani people are pastoralists who live in the Sahael region of Africa south of the Sahara, thousands of miles west of the Sudan.  Sudan has many indigenous groups that engaged in banditry and slavery, why import foreigners?

At one point it is proposed to cross Lake Tanganyika from Kigoma (in German East Africa) to Kalemie, Congo.  The town of Albertville, Congo was not renamed Kalemie until 1971. This is a grievous error for a former Peace Corps Volunteer in the Congo.

Equally puzzling was a reference to the battleship Maine being sunk in the Philippines. Surely Teddy Roosevelt knew it was sunk in Cuba.

The fact that atrocities were inflicted on natives of the Belgian Congo, including severing of hands when rubber collection quotas were not met, is a true theme reflected in the novel. However, at one-point starving and mutilated victims of such horrors are described as Tutsi and their persecutors Hutu.  In actuality, Rwanda/Burundi, home of the Tutsi and Hutu, in 1909 were under the suzerainty of Germany, not Belgium. They were not victims of rubber exploitation.  I thought this bit to be a gratuitous reference to genocide which would not occur for another eighty years.   

Finally, our intrepid heroes defied geography throughout the tome covering, by foot or horseback, hundreds or even thousands of miles in days. On their trek through northern Uganda into the Sudan, they pass just north of “Victoria Falls.”   They might have been near Murchinson Falls, but Vic Falls were then and still are 2000 miles to the south.

     As noted above I enjoyed this novel as much as for the discrepancies as for the tale.  However, for those not disturbed by the errors, it is a pleasant extrapolation of Roosevelt’s safari.

 

 

  

From the Foreign Service Journal - In Their own Write

 From the Foreign Service Journal, November 2020

The Last Rhino by Robert Gribbin

      Reformed hunter Philippe returns to Africa to help manage Garamba National park and bolster conservation efforts. Replete with wildlife and big game, the park is a natural paradise, but is not without threats.   Beyond wildlife, Philippe must contend with many of the violent actors that inhabit the park. including aggressive poachers, regional soldiers and the vicious Lord's Resistance Army. Briefings from locals and United Nations peacekeepers make it clear that he has his work cut out for him. 

     Among his priories is protecting the rare white rhinoceros, which has been hunted almost to extinction. After Philippe visits a small community sheltering some of the last white rhinos in Africa, he ponders how he can best protect this endangered species. If word gets out that this small community of Wayamba is protecting white rhinos, all sorts of actors my swoop in, from international conservationists to regional governments, and from sightseers to - perhaps worst of all - poachers.

     When Philippe receives reports that poachers are killing off elephants and penetrating into the grounds of the park, he must arm himself to defend against the worst, and seek out more firepower to ensure the threat is stopped for good. 

Ambassador (ret.) Robert Gribbin spent many years in East an Central Africa, first as a Peace Corps Volunteer and then as a Foreign Service Officer. He is the author of In the Aftermath of Genocide - The U.S. Role in Rwanda.  (2005) 

An Intelligent Book about Africa

 This review is copied from Barnes and Noble's website. Author unknown.

The Last Rhino

This book has a bit of a mystery in it and a lot of adventure. It is well written and an engaging read. What struck me most, however, was that it is about the real Africa. Judging from the “About the Author” page it makes sense that this would be a story about the authentic Africa told with intelligence and knowledge. Robert Gribbin has spent much of his life in Africa and this came shining through.

The book helps you to see, feel and understand Africa. (At times the descriptions make you feel as if you can also hear and smell it as well.) It describes some of the true ravages of the Lord’s Resistance movement and the complexities of environmentalism on this continent. The characters are well drawn, there are strong women and sensitive men and also conniving politicians. It captures the dialogues and motives of real people one would meet in Africa today. There are people wanting to give back to society and others intent on destroying the wildlife in it.
Make no mistake that this is a novel. It is a compelling read for the plot alone, but the reader feels as if they are learning things about Africa and about life as they are enjoying the story. If I were teaching a course on Africa I would assign this as a very enjoyable text for my students. One that is also accurate and enlightening.

This book exceeded my expectations on three levels: it is an intelligent look at conservationism as it works in Africa today; it is a realistic, accurate view of contemporary Africa; and it is an engaging well-written novel with bits of wisdom throughout. An excellent read.

Life and Death in the Sahara

 

A review of Sahara Unveiled – A Journey Across the Desert by William Langewiesche, Pantheon Books, NY, 1996.

 

I found this interesting book in the library, a branch that I don’t normally visit. It appealed to me because I drove across the Sahara in 1970.  Twenty years later during Langewiesche’s trip the physical challenge of the terrain remained immutable. Roads were terrible to non-existent. There was scant vegetation, mostly thousands of miles of a moonscape of rock and sand. The nights were clear and chilly. However, other things, i.e. bureaucracy, corruption, politics, danger, hostility, the size of settlements, the nature of trade, had changed for the worse in the time between our respective journeys.

Langewiesche starts his chronicle in Algiers, noting several times on his southward jaunt, that he had been there before. However, he never explained how or why he had travelled the desert before. In any case, prior knowledge allowed him to connect or reconnect with friends or acquaintances from earlier times. Through them he painted a realistic portrait of life in the oases of the Sahara.  Life was hardscrabble. Heat overwhelming.  Women were cloistered.  Male dominated Islamic society prevalent. The economy in shambles. Yet, the outside world, especially dreams of it, filtered in. In the central Sahara, Tuareg nomads strove to continue their traditional lifestyle, but trucks were replacing camels and modern weapons permitted banditry and rebellion to reach new heights.  Berber Arabs, Tuaregs and black Africans from the south were united by Islam, but tensions of eons old clashing cultures prevailed.

The author described the horrors – and gave numerous examples - of individuals being lost, abandoned, and dying of thirst.  Such afflictions were visited upon the desert dwellers through miscalculations. More than one of the author’s acquaintances lost relatives to the desert.  At least Saharans knew the risks, but outside visitors – trans Saharan tourists - often died because of ignorance. 

Langewiesche digressed to describe the desert’s devolution from green well-watered grasslands tens of thousands of years ago to today’s aridness which is still increasing. He also related the impact of 19^th and 20^th century French colonialism on the region, especially as it generated lingering hatred of France on the part of Algerians.  The author detailed how French romanticism of the “noble savage” Tuareg people precluded them from achieving a more balanced role in contemporary Saharan nations. Langewiesche’s discussion of the causes of Tuareg rebellion in the 1990s was excellent but even more useful in explaining conflict in the region during the years since.    

In sum, Sahara Unveiled is a fascinating and still valid portrait of a little-known corner of the world. Langewiesche told it as it was, warts and all. He certainly became part of the story but remained objective to the end. This book is an entertaining adventure story in and of itself. However, it is also an extremely useful read for anyone concerned with ongoing conflicts in the Sahara in Algeria, Mali, Niger, and Libya.

Journey through the heart of darkness

 

A review of Crossing the Congo by Mike Martin, Chloe Baker and Charlie Hatch-Barnwell, Hurst and Company, London, 2016.

First, a disclaimer; I drove across the northern half of the Congo in 1970. Roads were bad. We got stuck, had breakdowns, had to scrounge for spares, got arrested suspected of being mercenaries, got sick, got badgered by erstwhile officials. However, we found the people curious, friendly, and generally willing to help. Our trip some 43 years before team Mike, Chloe and Charlie’s undertaking was a walk in the park in comparison. Theirs was horrendous.

The saga told in this book began in London, followed by a long meander through West Africa.  Instead of retracing their route homeward, Mike and Chloe decided to circle down through the Congo and back up north to South Sudan, a journey of 2500 miles. They enlisted a friend, Charlie whose wonderful photographs fill the book and provide visual proof of their trials.  The three canvassed Kinshasa for permits, permissions, and advice. They also endeavored to put their old short wheelbase Land Rover into good enough shape for the trip. (We also drove a similar vehicle in 1970, but ours was in much better condition.) The Congo three barely get a passing grade for vehicle astuteness. Yes, they finally got through, but mostly on luck, not vehicle prowess.  However, whenever they broke down, which was almost daily, they jury rigged a part or just duck taped it back together until a better repair could be made.

Roads were the worst physical problem. They headed first to Kananga, southeast of Kinshasa but the road was destroyed and rutted by huge mining trucks and impassable for regular vehicles.  Then, they tackled the south/north route from Kananga straight to Kisangani 800 miles across the heart of the Congo basin rainforest, a route which had not been traversed by a vehicle in a decade. Because of war and neglect, the road essentially had retreated into jungle - bridges had given way, ferries non-existent, trees fallen across the path. Often the land rover had to be dug or dragged out of mud holes.  The team reinforced stream crossings and even built a raft to cross a river.  The physical effort was enormous and took a toll.

Worse, however, than an unreliable vehicle and abominable roads were the suspicions, harassments and negative attitudes from Congolese, especially those in authority.  Everyone assumed that three foreigners were chickens ripe for plucking.  There were interminable checks of papers and intentions.  No official could believe the three just wanted to drive through.  Congolese society was so corrupt for so long that there was sheer disbelief that the three were not on some nefarious mission. At one point a “big man” had trees felled across the road to impede their progress.  Even Congolese Catholic priests tried to price gouge them. Similarly, the crowds of people the three drew would pilfer as soon as a back was turned.  Occasionally, however, an individual or two would be genuinely helpful, but that was the welcome exception rather than the rule.

This book is beautifully written – mostly by Mike – and lavishly illustrated by Charlie’s photos.  It provides the detail of the difficulties alluded to above. It is indeed a sad commentary that the Congo has regressed so much both in terms of physical infrastructure and human kindness and courtesy in the past fifty years. Indeed, the Congo today is a sad, neglected, desperate place.  Big kudos to the three for their journey through the heart of darkness.

Chuckles and Anguish in Libya

 

A review of 101 Arabian Tales - How We All Preserved in Peace Corps Libya by Randolph W. Hobler.

  In 1968 several dozen naïve American Peace Corps Volunteers confronted 12th century Libyan culture.  This collection of anecdotes from the first volunteers to go to Libya in the late 1960s recounts encounters with huge cockroaches, rabid dogs, male dominated society, cloistered women, primitive sanitation, Islamic strictures, bureaucracies (both theirs and ours) even as they taught  English to fifth graders and learned Arabic from peers.  The idealism and the optimism of the young Americans is infectious as they are alternately bewildered or enchanted by their Libyan hosts. They ate camel burgers, dodged the draft, fell in love, travelled extensively and taught their classes, but above all they made a difference. Their lives were irreducibly changed, and so perhaps were their students and friends. But it quickly came to an end with the coup d’etat that brought Gaddafi to power.  This collective memoir based on diaries and recollections aptly captures the era, the challenges, the despair and the accomplishments of Peace Corps Volunteers sent to bring enlightenment to a most backward corner of the world.  

 This is a very unusual Peace Corps memoir in that it is not one person’s story. Although author Randy Hobler does tell his saga, he makes a point to add and cite observations, anecdotes and recollections of dozens of his peers. The sum then is much greater than its parts. The book is indeed a compendium of all that was experienced by the first two groups of Peace Corps Volunteers to go to Libya.  Assigned to isolated village schools - the women to urban schools - their task was to teach fifth graders English. Along the way they needed to build Arabic language proficiency, which they began in training so as to function in their various communities. They had a tough time, especially the women who were compelled to operate in a society that disdained females.  But for all experience overcame ignorance, flexibly conquered stodginess, brashness and innovation won out.  Hey, they were twenty-one so open to the newness - to them - of a structured, inflexible archaic religious dominated culture.  

The book takes a chronological approach to their experience. First was training in either Utah for the single men or Arizona for the women and married couples.  Mostly training was ineffective. Arabic lessons were meager, TEFL training poor, and cross culture education lean.  The prospect of “de-selection”, meaning you got sent home on specious psychological criteria tainted the whole process. However, the trainees bonded and such bonds would be needed in Libya.

In Libya the now sworn in volunteers dispersed to various posts, some in cities of Tripoli, Bengazi or Derna, but most to isolated villages in the interior and a few to oases far south in the Sahara desert. Aside from enthusiasm, the PCVs were poorly prepared for what they encountered.  No one spoke English and their Arabic was rudimentary.  Students were incorrigible.  Housing was abominable, often a small room shared with Libyan colleagues. Water and food were well below standards. Intestinal or insect generated disease was common.  Above all was the challenge of integrating themselves into their communities.  Folks were uniformly hospitable, but circumstances were bizarre.  PCVs had to learn how to cope in order not to offend.

The book digresses in the summer of 1969 to detail lots of regional and European travel , but then picks up again and closes with the problems arising from Gaddafi’s take over and the resulting expulsion of Americans.  It was hard to leave, but all finally made it out safely.

Finally, after naming so many volunteers during the course of the memoir and relating their individual memories, the book closes with an epilogue of what many ultimately did in life after Libya.

I have read dozens of Peace Corps memoirs and always find the impact of service on the individual writer to be profound.  However, this memoir contains not just the memories and observations of one volunteer but of dozens. It is therefore that much more authoritative. It does encapsulate a time and a country experience - one that was not likely replicated anywhere else.  It is truly an opus of cross cultural blunders and inspired rectifications.   The author’s breezy whimsical style is readable and the book is full of relevant photos. This is a good read. Former volunteers from anywhere will appreciate and nod affirmatively at many of the recitations. Other readers will enjoy the saga - we came, we immersed, we persevered.    

 

More Horror From Rwanda

 

A review of Left to Tell:  Discovering God Amidst the Rwandan Holocaust, by Immaculee Ilibagiza, Hay House Books 2020.

 

This is an intense personal chronicle of a young woman who survived the genocide by hiding, along with six others, in a small bathroom for eight weeks. Around them the genocide raged stoked by ethnic animosities, which inflamed rural Rwanda pitting neighbors and friends against each other.  Essentially in Immaculee’s region the Tutsi were wiped out including her parents and two brothers. A third brother who was studying abroad also lived.

Immaculee tells her story in a stark compelling narrative. As do many others still today, she never fully understands the why, but she did clearly grasp the danger and threat of imminent death should she or others hidden with her be found by the killers.  Amidst the hiding and the menace of death, Immaculee relied upon her faith and built upon it for sustenance and hope.  Ultimately, she accepts the catastrophe of evil visited upon the Tutsi people and refuses to blame the killers but rather to forgive them.

All in all, Left to Tell is a gripping read that reveals a very personal story from a survivor of genocide. My only quibble is that the narration uses dialogue in quotations that obviously was created after the fact. Such a device contributes to the power of the story and gives it an immediacy that it would not otherwise have, so I must accept it.

Readers of Left to Tell will be astounded by the horror of the genocide, the courage of the victims and the bravery of those who saved some.